We stop at the Mangahuia camp (DOC) site which is right near the Whapapa village. In the village we go to the Tonariro Holiday park and book a shuttle bus to transport us to and from the start and end points of the spectacular “Tongariro Alpine Crossing” trek.

We’ve done a few treks on the South island, some quite challenging, but the distance on this one is about 19.4km – about double the distance we’ve walked so far. I’ve done a good few walks of this calibre before and I’m curious how Ebru will cope.

The day arrives and our weather forecast is fantastic. We take the 7AM shuttle and we’re quite pleased to see that not too many others are starting off at this time, which should give us more peace to enjoy the scenery.

The scenery is breathtaking – a barren wasteland of volcanic activity. There are at least 5 caldera in close proximity and the walk takes you right between a number of them. The view of Mount Ngaruhoe is incredible! It’s a free-standing cone of about 2300 metres; have I mentioned that this is still active? They have a couple of signs along the way telling you what to do in case of an eruption – you know, descend as quickly as possible, preferably along some of the safer ridges – HA! Given the distances involved I wouldn’t expect to be returning home in case of an eruption, period! That’s just an accepted risk as far as I’m concerned.

Further along you walk by the Yellow Crater (which is yellow) and the Red Crater (which is red and steaming).

And nearby there are some dazzling volcanic lakes; the Emerald lakes being emerald green and boiling with sulphuric gas, and the Blue Lake which is not as blue as we expect (could be the cloud cover at the moment) but it’s still beautiful.

Worth noting (for those going there, who fail to read the notes in their guide books) is that this is considered a holy site by some and eating by or swimming in the lake are considered disrespectful.

Much more disrespectful in my opinion are those imbeciles who go around dropping their used tissues all over the place – stay at home, you do not belong on a mountain! (And of course I could strangle certain parents who don’t supervise their little brats and let them kick big rocks down scree runs and cliffs with no consideration whether there’s anyone receiving the avalanche below.)

Those rants aside, we have a wonderful day and the views and tremendous. We reach the end of the trail exhausted. Ebru is in pain and promising never to attempt this again, but she’s made it almost blister free and she’s put up a splendid performance in her less-than-ideal walking boots. No doubt the hiking bug will return to her once she sees the Andes.

Further North we visit the Wai-O-Tapu Park and other geothermal features.

Hot water beach is especially fun, where you can shovel yourself a little thermal bath all for yourself (good luck).

As well as some impressive water features around Kaimanava Forest Park.

In Auckland we visit my Sensei Keith from back home, whom I haven’t seen in over 10 years. They generously put us up in a room and for a whole week we’re graced with excellent company and nice communal dinners, quite nice after eating alone for several weeks.

As an added bonus, Keith has set up a workshop in his garage and he introduces me to the basics of wood turning and knife making, which are his latest hobbies. It’s really interesting and fun and makes me long for the time I’ll set up my own base with a good little workshop to keep me out of trouble.

Whilst here, we also meet Gordon Pembridge, an artist of note. We go around to visit one day have the opportunity to see him progress one of his art works in his workshop. Gordon has a background in the more commonly known skills such as painting, but has since become a keen wood turner, and the work he produces requires a level of skill not many people have achieved.

Have a look at his web site to get an idea (http://www.timberly.co.nz/gordon_gallery.htm). The wooden bowls shown are turned FREE HAND down to about a milimetre thickness! He then grinds and carves them with such delicacy that the end product is about as fragile as an egg shell. No wonder they fetch astonishing amounts at galleries worldwide. We feel honoured to have seen this master at work.

We spend the final few days in Auckland doing our online chores, planting more trees for our Planting Around the World mission, and enjoying the company of the Fords. I’m pleased to say that we even took some time to do some training together for the first time in 11 years. After our time here among Keith and Company, we come away even more inspired to go out there put our hands and brains to use in a creative manner.

To Keith and Family: we extend our gratitude to you for taking us into your home and making us feel welcome. I look forward to our next encounter and hope that it won’t be another 11 years before we meet again! Travis, thanks for your bed, take care, keep your head on straight and good luck with Oz. Samantha, good luck with graduation and work life, and remember, people aren’t all as mad as you may think

We want to find a nice place by the sea, not too costly, and stay there a few days just to relax, snorkel, maybe do some scuba diving. We only have a couple of weeks so I don’t really want to be rushing around from one place to another. We do some research on the Internet and pick an outlying island that seems not too touristical.

We arrive at Nandi airport and take the public bus system straight to the nearest town, four hours drive, and super cheap.

Then there’s a drive by taxi, followed by a half hour boat ride to arrive at the island.

We have to stay in town one night as it’s not possible to get a boat today and besides that we have to do some food shopping for the next few days. We check out the accommodation in the centre – there seems only to be a single motel. I check it out – Ebru understands the look on my face when I exit, but she really has no idea of the things I saw in there…. makes me shudder to think of it.

A local taxi driver of Indian descent makes us aware of a better option and takes us there. It’s reasonably priced and we like it a lot. Its rooms are preserved as from the 1970s or 1980s – the carpet, the bed spread, the little FM radio integrated into the bedside table. It also seems to be a place where many local Fijians come to stay or dine (food’s really good), so there’s a really happy, smiley Fijian atmosphere going on here. We drink beer and swim at the swimming pool outside and converse with a couple (Fijian and an Aussie) here for a wedding. Awesome place.

There are many people here of Indian descent. It’s a bit like being back in India, except there’s so many Fijians around. Fiji, being a British colonial territory, was determined to be a suitable place for sugar cane cultivation. Indians were lured over to build the rain infrastructure (which they of course had plenty of experience in) and many remained here. It’s another thing that adds to the flavour of this country: the Fijians are cool, the Indians are cool, the country is cool…. perfect!

The next day we go grocery shopping and the taxi driver, whom we befriend the day before, takes us to the pier. A boat meets us, piloted by the trusty caretaker of the property Pravesh, who is, by the way, an expert fisherman! (Thanks for all the tips and bait mate!)

On the other side we arrive on one of the most heavenly little pieces of land ever created on this earth.

We stay in a lovely bungalow, called “Bure” locally, with kitchen and bathroom, a stone throw from the beach. Perfect for two.

There are no shops here, so our supplies we need to bring along from main land. Electricity (generator) only works from afternoon to about 10PM, and the drinking water is rain water collected in a large tank behind the Bure.

Our two weeks here represent our most vivid memories of tranquility, isolation, relaxation, just pure existence surrounded by beautiful nature alone.

We find a small resort on the other side of the island with an excellent diving instructor named Steve, a South African. With him we accomplish our PADI Advanced certifications, and, in the water, we see the most dramatic displays of sea-life yet – sharks, fish, coral caverns…. Impossible to give a just description.

And the underwater beauty is not only accessible from a diving boat. Almost daily we’re out for hours, snorkelling in the vast coral gardens accessible just 50 metres out from the beach. Literally like an expansive garden of flowers in every shape and tone, with all colours of sea-life hovering around. It doesn’t get more magnificent than this.

Of course I dedicate a lot of my time to my main addiction: fishing. And contrary to the results in other places to date, I actually catch a fair bit, and of an edible size!

And believe it or not, Ebru joins me!

So we have some lovely fish BBQs out in front of the Bure.

Thanks again Graeme!

In fact, probably the most impressive catch was off the back of the diving boat, trawling a line. Within 15 minutes I landed a 1 metre barracuda!

Oh, worth mentioning (if you find this place) that there is a food menu available here in the evenings, by pre-order, and dishes are prepared by Filo, the lovely Fijian lady who manages the place day to day. She makes a mean pizza, and other guests had nothing but praise for her cooking.

We meet a few interesting people as well. Jan pilots big freight ships through a major canal around Kiel in Germany – “Helmsman”, I think it is called – and he’s is here spending some quality with his special lady, who is a nurse and thus they lack this quality time back at home. He’s a awesome chap, full of life and humour, and he comes well prepared with a stock of the local 50% rum.

We spend some nights together, drinking beer and Cuba Libres and exchanging experiences from our travels. He has plenty of fascinating stories from his ship voyages around the world, during his time in the navy and working on research vessels. The best one of which must be the crazy story of when he and a few navy mates, stationed in the Caribbean, happened by chance upon an long-lost Spanish Galleon sunken 30 metres off the island coast, hundreds of years ago!

One weekend an Irish Priest and his accomplice, a Fijian missionary, come to visit. We spend a night in interesting discussion about biblical history, whilst taking part in a Cava ceremony – an intoxicating brew made with the powdered root of the pepper tree.

Talking of trees, we finally made some progress here with our Planting Around the World *L mission!

During our time – or time-out – on Fiji, the removal from work, routine and urban life really hits home in a big way. The experience is not that of a mere vacation any more. It’s becomes a state of meditation. If there was ever a specific state of mind I was looking for out here on the journey, I think this is it.

Our boat from Bali lands at Trawangan and we get off there as we know we’ll find accommodation and hope to strike a good balance between action and secluded relaxation here. The first impression is pretty good, the sand is fine and bright, the water is clear and deep blue and it doesn’t look very crowded at all. There are a few touts trying to sell us into one accommodation or another but we just sit down on the beach for a while until the new arrivals crowd has dispersed and then we begin our search.

It turns out the island is pretty busy on the Southeast side, lots of people, bars and restaurants competing late into the night. Diving resorts and bungalows packed neatly next to one another. – Thank goodness we’ve come off season! If you walk further inland there are a few more out-of-the-way guest houses with cheap rates, but in a place like this you want to be at the beach!

After about 3 hours walking the coast line and bargaining for room rates, we find a nice accommodation on Northeast side called Beach Bungalow (120KRp/night, quite cheap compared to the centre). The breakfast (included) leaves much to be desired though and the staff are rather lethargic. But it’s away from the party zone, well away from the mosque which threatens to wake us up at inhospitable hours of the morning, and it’s right at the beach front. Of course we have a 15min walk to get to the main market, but this is a price worth paying. (This is confirmed to us several times by other guests that move up to Beach Bungalow from accommodations in the centre, due to lack of undisturbed sleep.)

Not keen to entertain more blood-boiling encounters with Bemo drivers, we decide to spend the rest of our Indonesian stay here and take it easy.

We get up in the mornings, have a breakfast and then commit ourselves to the sea for a few hours, swimming or snorkeling. Sometimes we take a walk to the centre to buy food and drink supplies and drink a good cup of coffee. In the afternoons I generally swim out and go fishing from one of the boats anchored out in the channel while Ebru sunbathes or does more snorkeling. It’s a great pace of life.

The snorkeling is fantastic around the North side of the island where the reef extends over a hundred metres out and depths reach at least ten to fifteen metres. Fish are abundant and a spectacular show of colour! We’re really gutted that we don’t have underwater camera equipment. It’s less spectacular on the East side but even here we encounter lion and scorpion fish on one occasion. Also they have a turtle sanctuary on the island, so sea turtles can be seen almost daily.

Unfortunately I cannot say that much for the fishing. I do all my fishing in the channel on the East side and occasionally off the diesel tanker that brings the generator fuel daily. But all I catch is so small it’s only good for fish food. For anyone going, please note that fishing supplies can be found in a couple of shops just around the back streets behind the night market. (Make sure you go alone so your wife/girlfriend doesn’t see you buying more fishing tackle AGAIN!)

(Mainstream media failed to inform you of the latest threat: the Suicide Fisherman!)

We get to know some good people at the Beach Bungalow as well. As I recall it, each couple moved in next door to us after a rather disturbing episode closer to the town centre (noise, obnoxious guests etc), so they decided to find a place where they could get some sleep. Here they are:

Ruth and Roel from Holland. It was really funny having a dinner with them one night, as it turned out they seem to be undergoing the same interesting behavioural phenomena on their travels: she plans everything and pushes to keep on schedule; he doesn’t care how long it taked as long as the beer is cold and they’re having a good time. LOL!

Cecelia (Uruguay) and Carsten (Denmark)

At the History Bungalows just a few metres down from us we meet a chap called Chaia. He’s from Lombok, a rice farmer, but has come here to earn some extra cash. He’s helpful and honest, and we immediately become befriended.

This is a place where everybody will bargain with you for the last buck but not him, and that is something we really appreciate. His bungalows are pretty quiet at the moment but we spend a few nights over at his bar, hanging out and talking about life in Indonesia and elsewhere, and he introduces us to a local rice wine, which is non-alcoholic but gets its kick from a type of tree bark – lovely stuff! Chaia I hope you read this some day. We were so happy to have met you and really enjoyed spending time with you on Gili. If we make it to Lombok again some day we’ll try to look you up. And thanks for letting us plant our tree for our Planting Around the World mission!

Walking around the rest of the island (about an hour) there’s not much to be found but a few resorts which look rather empty, there is one great secluded bar on the north side and on the West somewhere they have the full moon parties, but that’s about it. The only place we visit in town worth mentioning is a night at Sama Sama where they have live music and a good vibe.

Regarding food, we’re unfortunately still struggling to find something we like, as with the rest of Indonesia, but the our best meals and definitely the best value for money is to be found at the night market. Several stalls are waiting to grill you a fresh fish to serve with salad, and some other stalls sell various vegetable dishes to accompany. I don’t think we ever spend more than 50KRp for a fresh fish meal for two. And aside from that, a must try is the pumpkin curry from the old lady’s shop in the alley just off the market. Just ask around and you’re sure to find it.

Now in truth, there’s nothing much I can muster in words to convey to you the absolute tranquility and awe we felt in this place, waking up to its simple beauty day after day and letting the picture-perfect vistas wash over our optic nerves with the sound of the water rushing over coral sand. Shorts & flip-flops day in, day out (no shirt required). Sun tanning you right to the bone. We were transported away. Hypnotized. Conscious, yet dreaming.

So instead I give you these photographs to explain as best they can. Enjoy….

There is a ferry port in Banyuwangi on Java where ferries leave for Bali daily. We have some loooong bus journeys coming from Bromo. In fact, the bus that is supposed to go directly to one destination once again stops short and we are shunted onto another bus to take us closer. It’s hot, it’s slow and even the entertainment, which consists of the buskers that hop on at almost every stop and then extend their hats for change, is not really doing anything to improve our mood. Even the taxi driver who transports us from the last bus stop to the ferry terminal only a kilometre or two away, with whom we had arranged the more than fair price of 5000Rp/pp decides upon arrival that he actually wants 20000Rp/pp once we get there. I am ready to murder him and get a bit of satisfaction from turning my back and walking off, seeing his expression as he realizes he might no receive a penny, the bastard.

To top it up the waters aren’t too calm between Java and Bali, so we spend about an hour or two floating near the Gilimanuk harbour until we can dock there at about 10 at night. Once off board we walk for more than an hour to find accommodation.

It’s a simple place named Sari Hotel and we’re lucky to get some food and a few beers in their little cafe before bed. There is some talk about visiting a nearby island for some snorkelling the next day. which Jasper tries to arrange, but it doesn’t work out and we board another bus (probably the slowest so far) out of here.

After a four hour journey and about an hour’s searching in the Lovina area, we find some beautiful accommodation by the fishing village (Anturan Kubu Gembong) on the East side of town. It’s called Mandhara Chico Bungalows, costs us 140KRp/night and has a pool and is also directly at the black sand beach (though this is quite a mess due to monsoon rains). The place is beautiful: rooms are clean and large, huge bathrooms with hot water, balconies. it’s well maintained with mosaic pebble floors on the patio before the rooms. Really the perfect retreat for us all after a few days of being cramped up and cold.

We stay put here a few days, renting scooters (around 50KRp/day) to look around Bali during the day, eating at the nearby Reggae Bar and local guesthouse cafe and drinking beer in the swimming pool until the wee hours.

The Balinese scenery if beautiful and the guest house is great. The only thing to test your patience here is the hawkers on the beach, waiting to pounce on you and sell wares from jewellery to massages. I even get some fishing done but don’t even get a nibble out here.

After Lovina we part ways with Karen and Jasper. They intend to visit Denpasar (which I am not keen on since I recon it’ll be tout’s paradise) and we only have about 10 days left here which we’d prefer to spend on a lovely little island somewhere. We say goodbye to our friends and depart via the North coast for Chandidasar (a number of bus/bemo changes involved), where we spend one night before heading to Padangbai to catch our ferry. We cannot make it all the way to Padangbai and the journey is a pain as there is a Hindu festival going on and we have to change from the limited bus services to bemos to get there and, naturally, we get ripped off a bit in the process.

This place is pretty touristical and pretty dead right now. Apparently used to be a bit hit years ago. Our night at Temple Bungalow costs us 140KRp/night (excl. breakfast) and the place is nothing special. Though one nice thing is that across the road we find a German bakery which also does dinner – all sorts of German stuff on the menu – and it’s actually good so we really dig in that night!

Karen and Jasper, we know it’s taken us far too long to write this post. We hope you’re safely back in Amsterdam and all is going well for you. Thanks for your good company over our time in Indonesia. When we next have the chance to visit Amsterdam we’ll pay you a visit in the Noorderlicht!

We get off the Koh Tao – Surat Thani night ferry and get tuk-tuk-ed away to a travel agency where we wait for a minivan to Krabi. I expect the main Raylei or Au Nang beaches to be pretty overrun, but we hope to find a beach further North, not too main-stream, where we can take it easy. While we wait we chat to another English chap we met on the tuk tuk on KohTao, and according to what he tells us, it sounds like Koh Phi Phi is the place we want to be: beautiful, remote, cheap and not too overrun. We scrap the idea of Krabi’s mainland beaches and are soon on the West coast, boarding a ferry to Phi Phi Don island.

The journey there is beautiful, the sea is blue, we see big fish jumping out of the water in the distance. Phi Phi itself looks spectacular as we approach it. Palm jungle topped cliffs, smooth yellow beaches; however minutes after we disembark and start our search for accommodation our hearts begin to sink: the place is like a termite mound, full of termites from Sweden, South Africa, England, Germany, Russia – it’s heaving! Most of the accommodation is full. The vast majority of budget accommodation (we have a look at just about every place in the backpacker area and a few in the town centre) is shabby, unclean, yet quite expensive (700THB+) and anything on the decent side of the scale sets you back 1500THB or more. The attitude of the guest house- and market stall owners is pushy and grumpy. Screw this for a holiday…

Aside from some luxury resorts scattered around the island (accessible by boat), saddled between the two rocky mounds there is one low-lying, inhabited strip of land, probably about 1km long, 100m wide, with a beach and bay on either side: Long beach on the South, Party beach on the North. Long beach is not too impressive but more quiet, although the entire bay is littered with boats. Party beach is beautiful but come 6PM you need ear muffs if you don’t want to damage your hearing. The music from these beach-front clubs is turned so loud that you cannot escape it. Even on the furthest opposite side of the strip where we stay, shielded by buildings and trees, we hear the booming through the night – like camping at Glastonbury festival.

We stay in the best location on the island as far as we’re concerned. It’s as far away from the commotion as you can get, behind the staff housing. A lady named Deng rents out a few bamboo bungalows there, clean and we get it at only 600THB per night (though we know prices went up to 800THB closer to Xmas). You do still hear the noise from Party Beach and the generator house is nearby, so you hear that running all night, but I think it’s the best you can get for the budget. Also Deng is really helpful and she lets us padlock our valuables in a rucksack and store it at her house for safekeeping during the day.

50 metres down the path at the beach front there’s a guy named Suleiman – he says he is Muslim but you’d be forgiven for thinking he’s perhaps Muslim-Rastafarian. He runs a little beach-bar-restaurant, very simple and away from it all. He originates from Phi Phi, from a fisherman family and he prepares set menus from the daily catch, authentic island style. Also he rents kayaks at a very reasonable rate (600THB/day), does fishing trips and is very helpful and accommodating.

We find what looks to us to be the most professional PADI dive centre (named Barakkuda) and enroll for our AOW (Advanced Open Water). We get new manuals and everything and they go about the knowledge reviews quite diligently. Our first day entails the deep- and navigation dives. Deep dive goes fine, we do some exercises at 30m and I find I am getting narc’ed at about 25m, which is quite an interesting experience. After that back to the boat for lunch (included) and off we go to the next dive site for the navigation dive. The navigation dive goes down the pan because we end up in a current which sweeps us way off course and we have to can the exercises and just treat it as a fun dive.

Back at the ranch, we arrange with the instructor to complete the exercises in shallow water in the afternoon as we’ve missed out and off we go to get some rest. At this point I start feeling really exhausted. I take a nap in the shade but don’t feel any better thereafter so we go back to the dive shop to tell the instructor we can’t do the afternoon and ask his advice about my condition. His response is to the effect, “if you’re not feeling itchy or numb you’re fine… so do you want to dive tomorrow?” If you talk to someone about lice your head will feel itchy thinking about it, and as I was examining myself it was pretty hard to tell, so I waited a bit longer, resting in our bungalow and soon I was vomiting like a fire hydrant. Off we go to the island hospital!

We’re obviously concerned about the possibility of decompression illness from the dives, but soon enough the doctor and nurse establish that I have a bacterial infection (I think from the chicken sandwich) and a fever of about 38 degrees, and I spend the rest of the night on a saline and antibiotic drip. This I have to repeat the next two days, followed by four days of tablets. A bit of a bummer, but it’s better than DCI (DeCompression Illness) and the nurse and doctor at the hospital are really excellent.

The dive instructor seemed a bit of a numpty because despite the symptoms I was describing, all he appeared to be interested in was whether we’d be diving the next day. The owner, at least, is professional enough to show some concern about my condition and gives us a discount on the dives we’ve done and sorts out the paperwork needed to let these count toward our certification, to be completed at another PADI centre at a later date. Choose your dive centres carefully kids!

Our best experience on Phi Phi is on our last two days: We arrange with a local boatsman named Ren to pick us up at 6AM and whisk us off to Phi Phi Leh island, the little one further to the South of Phi Phi Don.

It’s only beginning to dawn when we set off and we watch the sun rise over the sea on our way. At Phi Phi Leh, we are the first to arrive at Maya Bay (now famous for featuring in the movie The Beach).

This place is an absolute dream! Our boat runs ashore amongst dense schools of baby fish which we at first mistake for oil slick, but as you walk through them they separate like a blob around you. We spend an hour snorkeling there in crystal clear indigo waters, among beautiful reef fish and even a few back tip sharks. It is absolutely gorgeous!

If you don’t go really early in the morning though, the place is overrun by dozens of tour boats coming from Phuket and all over the place.

Ren also shows us a few other bays and lagoons around the island, where we swim some more and we return home around 10AM. (The whole thing costs us 1300THB).

We then pick up supplies and bait at the market and rent a kayak from Suleiman for a couple of days. He includes a cooler box and dry bag free of charge and gives us loads of advice about where we can go, camp and find food or help if we need it.

We set off paddling around the island, swimming and fishing. It’s great. Unfortunately I only catch one reef fish of edible size though.

At sunset we paddle to the deserted Lana Bay beach and set up our tent and a fire for cooking. Although we set up tent well away from the water, we later realize the tide is incoming and we have to move the thing further up-beach in the dark! Just what we need in our fatigued state!

We were exhausted, but the roasted vegetables and fish go down a treat, washed down with a couple of Leo beers. Then we sit on the beach for a while, no one else in sight, nothing to hear but jungle noises and the splashing up of the sea. Glowing green Phosphorus is visible in the waves and lays washed up on the white sand and glow worms flicker in the bushes and trees behind us. How romantic! Just too bad we’re so exhausted!

The next morning we get up early, I get the fire going and as we start cooking breakfast the first tour boats arrive. By the time food is ready, tourists are pouring off, setting up on the beach for their hour of paradise and everyone is surprised to see us there… two hobos with camping gear eating eggs and drinking hot coffee.

A funny thing is when we’re leaving Phi Phi, we notice that a few places are all decorated with Xmas tinsel and things, and for the first time we realize that it’s Christmas TOMORROW! and have to laugh at the fact that we completely by-passed the at-least-month’s worth of Xmas advertising that we’d have been surrounded by back home.

In conclusion, it must be said that the Phi Phi islands are without a doubt some of the most beautiful islands off Thailand and there are a fair few activities there (climbing, fishing, walking, diving, kayaking etc). If you’ve got an ample budget and are up for a few days of party with some interesting excursions in-between this is probably a good place to go. However if you’re looking to avoid large [drunken] crowds and want to enjoy a place of natural beauty and be able to get away from the fray, Phi Phi is not it – UNLESS maybe you have the budget to put yourself up in one of the secluded luxury resorts on the other sides of the island.

We spend our time updating the web site, sorting photographs and taking it easy.

We decide to eat late lunch at the Cafe Inn and have a Laffa, which is a flat bread filled with grilled meat of your choice and topped with a selection of fresh salads and pickles. Absolutely delicious!

Also we try the Cheeky Chapati, a cosy wood-finished restaurant run by an English expatriate, where they do an excellent tandoor meal of meat and vegetables marinated in yoghurt and spices on a large skewer. Yum! He also seems to take his beer pretty seriously, so it comes ice cold out of the freezer, taking the edge of that indian-brewed beer taste.

I also have the chance to do some hand-line fishing off the beach. It’s great and I catch about 5 catfish (2 of them too small to eat) and one beautiful fish with black and golden stripes along its horizontal. Our plan is to braai them in the evening but the weather turns out too rainy so we end up giving them to the guest house owner when we leave.

We take the bus from Palolem aroung 15:00 to ensure we make it to Dabolim airport before 19:00. The journey, with change in Margao, is pretty smooth despite rush hour traffic.

We check in and clear security in Dabolim. it’s raining cats and dogs outside and are soon informed that our flight is delayed by 30 minutes. Later we’re informed that it will be delayed until 23:30 – I gather as the plane is unable to land here in these conditions.

A fair bit of hoo-haa arises, with SpiceJet staff getting absolutley minced by dozens of shouting Indians, each drawing an additional crowd of their own to watch the spectacle. Finally, at about 23:00 the jet lands to a roar of applause and cheers from the waiting passengers.

Delhi here we come!